By Johnny Coomansingh
There is a statement that almost all citizens of Trinidad and Tobago (T&T) sometimes use. That statement, “Trinidad is nice. Trinidad is a paradise” is almost true. The reality is that T&T has so much to offer every tourist, but alas, the challenges that persist are foreboding. It seems that with all that nature has bequeathed on these two islands it is apparent that some of the descendants of the people who arrived here are not cognizant that conservation, and in some cases, preservation of the rich biodiversity, is paramount in contributing to their welfare.
A conspicuous feature of the island of Trinidad is the Northern Range which runs from East to west. The range of hills are about 1500 feet high while the highest peak is El Cerro del Aripo at 3085 feet. The island is bounded by the Caribbean Sea to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the east and south, and the Gulf of Paria to the west. Trinidad then, is without question, a part of Amazonia supporting certain aspects of South American fauna and flora. In light of this reality, T&T is well endowed to undertake a viable nature-based program. Nevertheless, there are serious problems to really get this program off the ground.
As the last vestige of the Andean mountain range, the twin-island state could boast of a biodiversity unsurpassed. The diversity in the rainforest-type climate includes 100 species of mammals, 486 species of birds, 765 species of butterflies, 85 reptiles and eleven freshwater fish. On the north coast of Trinidad, the Grande Riviere beach hosts the world’s second-largest nesting site for the leatherback turtle (Demochelys coriacea). The Kelleston Drain, sometimes called Kelleston Deep or Little Tobago Drift is a long plain of lush coral that drops from 30′ to 60′ then slopes off steeply is home of the world’s largest brain coral. Over 5,000 crustaceans proliferate in and around the waters of Trinidad, some adapted to freshwater environments. The Piping Guan or Pawi (Pipile pipile), a wild turkey, is endemic to Trinidad.
In terms of flora, Trinidad has about 200 species of orchids growing wild. Roadside wildflowers flourish in abundance. Waterfalls and beautiful clear water pools exist throughout the Northern Range. The Caroni Swamp Wildlife Sanctuary where the Scarlet Ibis (Endocimus ruber) and other species come to roost in the mangrove forest is a spectacle. Taking into consideration the culture of this multiracial, multi-religious, polyrhythmic society, it is without question that T&T has the perfect package suited for nature-based tourism. Nevertheless, with all these advantages, there are extenuating circumstances that will prevent the effectiveness and success of a dynamic program.
Because of its dependence on hydrocarbon exploitation and exploration, Trinidad has never had a true history of tourism. Dr Eric E. Williams, the first prime minister of T&T made it clear that he did not want the people of T&T to become a generation of busboys and janitors. He literally stymied the growth of the tourism business sector. Late in the starting blocks, the reality is that T&T is now playing ‘catch up’ in the game to win tourists. Moreover, the majority of the citizens do not recognize that nature-based tourism could be economically salvific for a nation dependent on the ebb and flow of hydrocarbon exploration and exploitation.
For decades, tourism as an industry was left on the wayside. Saddled with unregulated and illegal quarrying, loss of forest cover, poaching, the creation of huge playa lakes, disturbed lands, uncontrolled squatting, destruction of riparian vegetation, silting up of rivers, flooding, hillside erosion, habitat destruction, combined with sea level rise and coastal damage, to mention a few ills in the environment, the reality is that T&T will have to make a paradigm shift to arrive anywhere near to having a nature-based program in tourism.
Trinidad’s closest neighbour, Venezuela, is just 11 kilometres (7 miles) away across the Gulf of Paria. The gulf separates the island from the mainland of South America. Lying on the continental shelf of South America, Trinidad is geologically considered to lie entirely in South America. Physiographically, the island is an extension of South America. Ecological origins are shared with the South American mainland rather than with the Antillean Arc, which geologically, distinguishes Trinidad from the rest of the Caribbean.
Although quite unique, there are mud volcanoes on the island of Trinidad but these formations have not been developed sufficiently for tourism. Between the northwestern peninsula, the nearest point to Venezuela, there is a smattering of islets namely, Chacachacare, Monos, Huevos and Gaspar Grande, also called Gasparee Island or sometimes referred to as Centipede Island. It has been peddled that Centipede Island has some of the largest centipedes ever seen. The equatorial climate of Trinidad is a literal haven for butterfly enthusiasts. Entomologists could also find myriads of other interesting insects.
In terms of avian species, the wide variety of birds proffers a wonderland for amateur birders and professional ornithologists and photographers. Of the more famous birds, the Scarlet Ibis (Eudocimus ruber), Blue and Yellow macaw (Ara araruana), Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao), the Oilbird or Guacharo (Steatornis caripensis) the endangered Piping Guan or Pawi (Pipile pipile) and the Trinidad Motmot (Momotus bahamensis). The Pawi and Motmot are the only two endemic birds to Trinidad.
As a case in point regarding our troubles with the crime of poaching, Josh Bajnath alerted us about the dire need to save the Pawi. Josh is the owner/director of Bajnath’s Estate Hummingbird Sanctuary, a Tour Guide (Grande Riviere Nature Tours) and Wildlife Photographer. His article on Facebook, “The Ghost of the Northern Range” stated:
“Deep in the misty forests of Trinidad’s Northern range lives a bird so rare, most people have never seen—or even heard—of it. This is the Trinidad Piping Guan or Pawi; a bird found nowhere else on Earth! Once common across our forests, the Pawi is now critically endangered. Fewer than 400 individuals are thought to remain. It moves like a shadow through the treetops—a ghost of the past—where its unique wingbeats and piping calls once filled the air. Today, silence is taking its place. The Pawi is disappearing because of deforestation and illegal hunting. Even though it’s protected by law, its rarity has made it a prize for poachers. We are running out of time. Without urgent action, the Pawi could be gone forever—not in a hundred years, but in our lifetime…”
Despite all our problems, crime being the major one, T&T emerged as the UK Telegraph Caribbean Travel Award for Best Destination for Nature Holidays on June 25, 2015. There were ten reasons why T&T received such an accolade. Included in the lot were the Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary, Argyle Waterfall, Tobago, Nesting of the Leatherback Turtle, Nylon Pool, Tobago, Ziplining Adventure Park in Chaguaramas, Gasparee Caves, Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary, Pointe-a-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust, Nariva Swamp, and Tobago Main Ridge Forest Reserve. The world-famous Tobago Main Ridge Forest Reserve consists of 14000 acres of forest in the central Tobago. It is the oldest protected rainforest in the Western hemisphere which dates back to April 13, 1776.
Regarding ecotourism aspirations, there are a few resorts in Trinidad that offer certain packages for visitors. These can be contacted on the Internet. They include the Asa Wright Nature Centre operated by HADCO Ltd, Aripo Cottage Eco Resort, Coryal Countryhouse, Hummingbird Eco-Lodge, La Vega Estate, Paria Falls Staycation Houses, Santa Maria Eco-Lodge, Hacienda Jacana, Acajou Hotel (Grande Riviere), Jardenia Nature Escape, Gran Couva Eco Lodge, and Valencia Eco Resort. In Tobago, there are Castara Retreats, Cuffie River Nature Retreat and several others.
As mentioned before, the crime problem is the biggest challenge that affects every single aspect of living in T&T. Tourists are not spared the onslaught. Last year, (2024) there were 641 murders in T&T. We have already chalked up 169 murders for 2025. Having a good showcase is one thing, but this horrible murder rate is not good for any country that wants tourism as an economic driver. Dr Auliana Poon, head of tourism intelligence international said in her article titled: “Crime and tourism do not mix,” published in the Trinidad Guardian (09/07/2011):
“Nothing kills tourism like a dead tourist. This statement is true to the bone. For crime and tourism just do not mix. Would you choose to spend your hard-earned money and your limited vacation time and travel to a country where you have to look over your shoulder every minute? Would you travel to a country where you have to consider not wearing your wedding ring or gold chain because it might get stolen off of you? Will you travel to a holiday destination where you have to be locked down after 11 pm? Certainly not!
And this is exactly what potential visitors from New York and London will consider before stepping on that jet to travel to T&T. At the end of the day, it is all about choice. Travel is about freeing up yourself; escaping from work and the routine of daily life. Travel is about relaxing, recuperating, rejuvenating. Travel is also about having fun. Travellers want to visit destinations where at least the safety of themselves and families can be taken for granted. And given the choice-which all travellers have-they will chose those destinations where crime is simply not a problem.”
I am not a naysayer or a doomsday prophet that speaks against or rejects nature-based tourism. However, this is the reality! We have a serious challenge to curb the crime situation if we want to get anywhere concerning any kind of tourism program in T&T. I was a boy, one murder in T&T was one too many. I didn’t see this in the dailies but a few days ago (May 23, 2025), Ian Alleyne, the host of the television program Crime Watch reported:
“Three foreign nationals—two Irish designers and one British artist—were victims of a violent home invasion at the Corbin Wildlife Center , located on Belmont Farm Road, Mason Hall, Tobago, around 11:00 pm on Thursday, May 22, 2025. The two female victims, who were volunteering on the island for two weeks were in a bedroom on the western side of the bungalow when they noticed a man’s hand—armed with a firearm—reaching through a window. The intruder…threatened them while searching the room. Both women screamed and managed to escape by jumping through the window, sustaining minor injuries during the escape…”
Tourists visit locales to seek out new experiences, to see new things. I doubt that they go to places to look for harassment, trouble, brutality and death. Many are fascinated by nature and what it offers. However, no tourist should lose his or her gaze; the ‘tourist gaze’ as espoused by John Urry, because of crime. Too many tourists fall prey to crimes in T&T because nowhere these days is safe in Trinidad and Tobago. These are the realities and challenges we face.
The post The realities and challenges involved with nature-based tourism in Trinidad and Tobago appeared first on Caribbean News Global.